You insert this from the top on some ratchet extensions, hold the cartridge, then undo the bolt with an allen. YOu can typically fashion it from bolts or a tube. This tool varies from fork to fork, but usually they have a picture of it in the manual. If you don't have one, you can use a tool to hold the cartridge (i know you don't have a cartridge, but the equivalent) from spinning. Just make sure you have the little retainer clip outįor that bolt on the bottom, you can use an impact. To pull the tubes apart, it helps to have one inside a vice. Usually you can slide it on on the end that's inside the fork, which is clean and rust-free.
Don't run the seal over any rust, either. Careful about the sharp end of the tube, you can use some tape to make sure you don't scratch the seal. Cover the tube in fork oil to make sure it slides on right. Tap on it with a punch or even screwdriver. So it's easy to bleed off the air.ītw, you can use the old seal to drive in the new one. Some fancier ones have an air nipple like on the tire and you use a tire pump to give it a few psi. You can control the damping some by raising and lowering the oil level, thus changing the volume of air. On some bikes of that era they used the air-assisted term to mean there's air above the oil. ( and I have done thousands of fork seals) I have never had an oem installed seal leak, and when customers bring me 'aftermarket" ones, its about 70/30. Lastly- use oem seals, most of the aftermarket ones are a crap shoot on whether they will last or not.
Loosen the upper triple clamp bolts (the ones that pinch the top of the fork tubes) remove the air line and the fork caps, install the proper amount of fork oil, re-install the caps and the air lines-use 15 or 20W oil, and dont run any "added" air pressure, it will build up to about 5 psi just by riding it, and be upto about 10psi when you are riding it for longer periods of time and when its hot (expansion) and that is more than enough pressure ( if your suspension is way too soft, then get better springs, or add an inch or two of spacers to preload them - adding air pressure is only asking for the seals to leak again.) Install the new seal, slide the new dust seal up the inner fork leg and the snap ring, reinstall the lower tube onto the inner tube, install the lower 6 or 8mm bolt to hold the inner and upper together (a little grease on the washer and the threads help) Pry out the oil seal (make sure to not damage the tube) if you didnt use the 'slam" method aboveĬlean up the entire assembly, put some grease in the new oil seal (where the springs are holding the lip, packed full- this will keep the spring in place during assembly) and a little around the outer edge of the seal (so it slides in easier)
Remove the dust seal, and the snap ring that is under it, you should then be able to seperate the upper and lower fork tubes (you may need to "slam" the lower down a couple times to remove the seal, but usually those old tubes will just slide around the bushing and seal) The 6mm or 8mm headed allen bolt on the bottom of the fork tube needs to be removed, use an air gun and the proper "good" allen head (if you strip it, you will be drilling) all the oil will drain out through that hole, and it allows you to remove the lower fork leg from the upper Clutch Slave Cylinder Repair Kit - Honda VF500 VFR700/750 GL1500/1800. Take off the wheel, fender and brake calipers Which, is why, although I bought some pretty low end (frumpy) motorcycles, they always ran and moved under their own power at time of purchase.īecause, I learned from my father, a "deal" isn't a deal if you can't fix it or get it to somebody who owes you a favor.On that bike, you dont need to remove the fork tubes !! ( Luckily for you, you have one of the simplest bikes to do seals on) DIY is the top-rated supplier of printed dealership factory manuals. Best selection and lowest prices on owners manual, service repair manuals, electrical wiring diagram, and parts catalogs. Which will take some time and effort.ī) I will dump off this bike that doesn't run (and part it out on the ebay, until you are down to the frame, then craigslist for the frame) and buy something else that runs. Original factory 1984 Honda VF500C V30 Magna Motorcycle Parts Catalog by DIY Repair Manuals. There is nothing wrong with the bike overall, but if it doesn't run or has some problems, you basically have to make a choice consisting of 2 possibilities.Ī) I will learn what is wrong, become better at fixing these kinds of things and learn. The v30 is a decent smallish bike displacing 535 cc if memory serves. They are quite similar, but still have differences.
I owned a 1984 Honda Magna (for three years starting in 1984, they were 700 cc vs the standard 750 cc due to H-D putting a special tax on anything over 750 cc).Īnyway, the "magna" and the "sabre" were mfg'd at the same time. Let me preface my "are they interchangeable" statement.
The "service" manuals are out there new for around $30 when you consider how much you could ruin in parts, it makes it easily worthwhile.